The best way to prevent an escape is to secure the lid properly. Securing the EnclosureĪlthough hognose snakes are fossorial, they have still been known to escape from their enclosures without the right precautions - especially the tiny babies. Photo contributed by Haleey46 on Instagram. Diurnal species need a source of bright light, which is not possible with traditional tub and rack systems. While humidity is not a concern, tubs are limited in terms of the light and space they can offer. Tubs are not recommended for North American hognose snakes. Maximum Reptile Essential 3 (36″ x 24″ x 24″).They can be more expensive than the other options, but their sheer longevity makes the investment worthwhile. These are also designed to be front-opening. Plastic/PVC enclosures are preferred by many snake owners because they are extremely durable, and the most lightweight material available. Wood and melamine have the additional benefit of being lighter than glass - although to be honest, just about any enclosure material is lighter than glass. These enclosures are also built to open in front, making them quite convenient. Wood and melamine enclosures work well for hognose snakes because there is little to no danger of crumbling/mold from water damage. All Living Things Reptile Terrarium (36″ x 18″ x 16″).Aqueon 40gal Breeder Tank (36″ x 18″ x 16″) and Screen Lid.Exo Terra Large/Wide Natural Terrarium (36″ x 18″ x18″).However, the clear sides are known to stress reptiles out, so 3 sides should be blacked out with construction paper or other opaque material installed on the outside. They’re attractive, help facilitate better temperature gradients, and although front-opening enclosures are easy to access, top-opening ones allow for a deeper substrate layer. Glass enclosures can house a hognose well. (More information about temperature gradients on the next page!) Types of Hognose Snake Enclosures Without a good temperature gradient, a hognose can’t regulate its body temperature and can get sick. But it also needs to be large enough to create an appropriate temperature gradient for the snake to thermoregulate with. The enclosure must be large enough to allow its occupant enough space to stretch out and exercise, as hognose snakes are very active when given the opportunity. Note that the above specifications are minimums only - BIGGER IS ALWAYS BETTER! In fact, as long as they have sufficient places to hide and feel secure, a young hognose snake can be perfectly fine housed in an adult-sized enclosure. For Easterns and adult female Westerns, 40 gallons (36″x18″16″ or 90x45x40 cm) is a more appropriate minimum.Adult males can be housed in a minimum 20 gallon (30″x13″x13″ or 76x33x33 cm) enclosure.Juveniles can be housed in a 10 gallon (20″x10″x12″ or 50x28x33 cm) until they are 1 year old.Hatchlings under 6″ (16 cm) long can be housed in a 5 gallon (16″x8″x10″ or 40x20x25 cm).As long as a snake has sufficient cover and the right temperature gradient, even a hatchling can be comfortable in something larger than a Kritter Keeper. I prefer this set of guidelines for terrestrial snakes: Conventional knowledge dictates that hognose snakes need minimum 1 sq ft per 1 ft of snake length.
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